The Hakama (pleated trousers/skirt) and the Kataginu (pleated-front vest) worn together formed the Kamishimo, the traditional costume worn by the members of the samurai or warrior class during the Edo period in Japan (1615-1868). The two items would be worn over a knee length kimono for formal occasions.
Essentially, the Hakama is simply a large rectangle of fabric that is pleated to fit your body and therefore the pattern does not have a large rectangle pattern piece (waste of paper!). Instead, you are given a complete set of instructions for measuring, cutting, and pleating the traditional Hakama skirt/trousers in any size.
The pattern does include actual pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, the pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.
The wide-shoulder Kataginu can be made to match the Hakama for a traditional samurai appearance or as a contrasting wearable art accent. Easy to pleat and sew, it completes a dramatic outfit.
This is a paper pattern and the Hakama is sized for men to women based on waist size. The Kataginu is one size.
For the Kataginu– Crisp, tightly woven cottons; linens and linen blends; ramie; hemp; silks, including shantung, habotae, pongee, satin, or taffeta. Note:You may have to starch fabric to preserve pleats. Light or medium-weight cotton, rayon, or silk.
For Hakama: Same as Kataginu, but also lightweight wool suiting.